New Data Shows Ocean Waves Getting Bigger, Stronger
2023-08-08
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1An ocean researcher at the University of California, San Diego says waves are getting bigger and stronger since 1970.
2There are also more "big wave events" than ever before.
3A big wave is about four meters tall or more.
4Peter Bromirski at the university's Scripps Institution of Oceanography looked at seismic records going back to 1931 in his research.
5Seismic information is often used to measure the power of earthquakes.
6But Bromirski said large waves create enough energy to be measured by seismographs, also.
7When large waves reach the shore, they bounce back and run into new waves.
8The crash sends energy through the ocean floor where it can be measured by seismographs.
9Those measurements permitted Bromirski to judge the strength and size of waves over a period of 90 years.
10Bromirski said he "stumbled upon" the seismographic information.
11Before the discovery, he said, "it was almost impossible" to compare waves from the past with those from the present.
12It took a lot of work to put the data together.
13Much of the information was on paper.
14Bromirski and his team of student researchers had to put the information into a computer so they could examine the data.
15The slow process took years.
16They found that the height of most waves in the winter along the California coast have grown by about 30 centimeters since 1970.
17Starting that year, waves of over 4 meters happened more often, as well. Between 1996 and 2016, the large waves happened twice as often as they did from 1949 to 1969.
18Bromirski and his team published their research recently in the Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans.
191970 is the year scientists believe the warming of the planet began to speed up.
20Bromirski says the new data shows that climate change is making ocean waves taller and stronger.
21That means they are more likely to damage the coast, roads and structures, such as piers and houses.
22Bromirski said his research may be a warning that bigger and stronger waves are ahead.
23With more warming, sea levels will rise and waves will get stronger, causing flooding and more damage to land.
24The California coast has already been damaged by big waves in recent years.
25Gary Griggs is an ocean researcher at the University of California, Santa Cruz.
26He did not work on the study.
27He said a 30 centimeter increase in wave height over 50 years is not that large.
28However, the findings of the study support what scientists already know: waves are becoming stronger and causing more damage along coasts.
29He said Bromirski's project adds to the data showing the world is warming fast and sea levels are rising.
30"The challenge," he said, "is sort of how to really respond to that."
31I'm Caty Weaver.
1An ocean researcher at the University of California, San Diego says waves are getting bigger and stronger since 1970. There are also more "big wave events" than ever before. 2A big wave is about four meters tall or more. 3Peter Bromirski at the university's Scripps Institution of Oceanography looked at seismic records going back to 1931 in his research. 4Seismic information is often used to measure the power of earthquakes. But Bromirski said large waves create enough energy to be measured by seismographs, also. 5When large waves reach the shore, they bounce back and run into new waves. The crash sends energy through the ocean floor where it can be measured by seismographs. 6Those measurements permitted Bromirski to judge the strength and size of waves over a period of 90 years. 7Bromirski said he "stumbled upon" the seismographic information. Before the discovery, he said, "it was almost impossible" to compare waves from the past with those from the present. 8It took a lot of work to put the data together. Much of the information was on paper. Bromirski and his team of student researchers had to put the information into a computer so they could examine the data. The slow process took years. 9They found that the height of most waves in the winter along the California coast have grown by about 30 centimeters since 1970. Starting that year, waves of over 4 meters happened more often, as well. Between 1996 and 2016, the large waves happened twice as often as they did from 1949 to 1969. 10Bromirski and his team published their research recently in the Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans. 111970 is the year scientists believe the warming of the planet began to speed up. Bromirski says the new data shows that climate change is making ocean waves taller and stronger. That means they are more likely to damage the coast, roads and structures, such as piers and houses. 12Bromirski said his research may be a warning that bigger and stronger waves are ahead. With more warming, sea levels will rise and waves will get stronger, causing flooding and more damage to land. The California coast has already been damaged by big waves in recent years. 13Gary Griggs is an ocean researcher at the University of California, Santa Cruz. He did not work on the study. He said a 30 centimeter increase in wave height over 50 years is not that large. However, the findings of the study support what scientists already know: waves are becoming stronger and causing more damage along coasts. 14He said Bromirski's project adds to the data showing the world is warming fast and sea levels are rising. 15"The challenge," he said, "is sort of how to really respond to that." 16I'm Caty Weaver. 17Dan Friedell adapted this story for Learning English based on a report by the Associated Press. 18____________________________________________________ 19Words in This Story 20seismic -adj. having to do with an earthquake or energy created by the shifting of the earth's surface 21stumble upon -phr v. a surprise discovery or unexpected encounter 22pier -n. a long structure built in water that connects the shore to where boats dock and allows people to walk 23challenge -n. a difficult task that takes hard work to complete 24respond -v. 25____________________________________________________ 26We want to hear from you. How are big waves affecting your country's coastal areas? 27Here is how our comment system works: 28Each time you return to comment on the Learning English site, you can use your account and see your comments and replies to them. Our comment policy is here.